Semana Santa, (pronouced: Say-mah-nah Sahn-ta) or Holy Week, which celebrates the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ, is one of the most important – if not the most important- holidays of the year in the approximately 90% Catholic country of Colombia. 

Growing up in the states, this  holiday is celebrated on Easter Sunday by a giant rabbit that hops around leaving plastic-grass-filled baskets full of candy, and candy-filled eggs to children. Yup, we have a giant bunny, Colombia has a week long religious ceremony. But the largest celebration takes place on the Friday before Easter.

On Friday, Colombians mourn the death of Jesus Christ.  According to the Bible, this is the day Jesus was led to the hill, dragging his cross on his shoulders, and nailed to the cross to die.  On this day, churches open early  in the morning, and at around 10 am, a colorful and solemn procession begins. The procession I went to was led by a marching band of children, complete with flag waivers and majorettes.

Behind the band comes the statues.  People carry a  statue of Jesus carrying a cross and being guarded by the Romans. (ok, there is just one Roman in this particular procession).  

This symbolizes Jesus’s long walk to death. In some towns, this act is portrayed in real life, and a chosen man carries a full sized cross down the streets. In Medellin, real men carry this giant (and obviously very heavy) statue.

People gather around this statue, following it, gazing upon it, and praying to God as they walk down the streets. Some families create their own statues of the disciples and the Virgin Mary,  and as the main Jesus statue pass by, these families lift their own statues onto their shoulders, and jump into the crowd, becoming part of the procession themselves. 

Having one of these disciple statues is commonly a sign of the families wealth and importance.  It is considered an honour and a burden to have and carry these life size, heavy figures down the streets. It is also a way to brag how much money you have.  Creating these statues is expensive, so only the wealthy can afford to make them.  To have one in a parade is a way of showing off your wealth to all your neighbours, under the pretense of humility and humbleness.  It’s a left-handed way of saying “Look at my money.  I’m better than you!”

The entire procession weaves in and out of streets, finishing in front of the main doors of the church.  These parades last a few blocks to a couple of miles.  

At the church doors, the ceremony climaxes with the nailing of another figure of Jesus to a cross and raising him up, just like the bible describes. I have been told that in some smaller cities this is also played out in real life, but the nails are fake, and a man either stands on a platform or is tied to the cross by his wrists.

Then, one by one, the figures, led by the Jesus-on-the –cross statue, are rolled down the center aisle of the church, and placed upon the altar. Then the band, which has filtered in to the outer aisles of the church, now moves in line towards the front, and silently march out of the church, down the center aisle, past all the parishioners.

It is quite a beautiful ceremony. 

After this elaborate ritual, starts a long and emotional mass.

I also noticed, quite a few people arrive to the church ahead of the parade and touch the wounds of Jesus on the cross (while he is propped up diagonally outside, before he is raised.)  They touch the wounds, then make the sign of the trinity on their forehead and murmur silent prayers to themselves.  Many people, especially the older ones, look truly sad. 

This is a day to mourn Jesus’s death, and many people look like they really are in mourning; while others seem to just enjoy the activities.  There are even food vendors outside selling popcorn and fried foods to the crowds.

The rituals of Easter Weekend in Medellin are far from the giant egg-laying, cavity-endorsing rabbit we have in the states.

Semana Santa 2013 will be celebrated on March 29, 2013.  If you are in Colombia, or any Latin American country, I recommend searching out a local celebration.

Cheers!

Also, you can now follow my blog with Bloglovin, a new RSS reader (to replace all those ones that are dissapearing)

Santa Fe de Antioquia is a sleepy little tourist town about an hour outside of Medellin, Colombia.  Known for its old colonial buildings, it’s old suspension bridge, and cobblestone streets, it also holds some great surprises when you wander outside of the main square and down the side roads.

Now have fun not humming that song for the next 6 hours!

CHEERS!

Why not check out more videos on GoingNomadic’s new YouTube Channel:  

GoingNomadicTV

I’ve written before about Che Lagarto Hostel in Santiago, Chile, and how I bartered photography for free nights stay in their hostel. (In their hostel I loved so much, I continued to stay there for my last 4 days, after what we contracted).

I even mentioned getting serenaded on their Valparaiso and Viña del Mar day tour they sent me on, but …

NOW I GET TO SHOW YOU THE SERENADE!

Oh yes, I did take video of Andres, the accordion playing sweetheart who tripped the light fantastic for me.  I don’t even remember what I was supposed to see, because I was too enthralled with this sudden outburst of attention.

Andres, I miss you.  But just so you know, watching this video now, makes me feel as happy as it did when you called me out and sang and danced like I was the only gringa tourist there.

Hope this video makes you smile like it does me.

CHEERS!

Quito is known for its volcanoes, its historic district, and easy transport to Middle Earth.  But if you are like me, and could give a crap about these things, (or just don’t like freezing cold, rainy weather enough to want to go climb a volcano in it), why not attend one of the many many metal shows that happen almost daily in Quito.

Quito is metal-head-freakin-heaven!

Most fans of metal music think of Finland, Sweden, Norway…as where the best metal comes from.

But I disagree. Quito rocks.  Well, their weather sucks.  But when it comes to music, people, and a good time, Quito Rocks!

And quite frankly, all of Ecuador is full of metal-head minions.

During my 6 weeks in Quito I attended shows, band rehearsals, and studio recordings almost daily.

QUITO LOVES METAL MUSIC!

It was something I never expected. Walking around Quito you see many long black haired, black dressed, skull embellished, metal-heads everywhere. In Mariscal Foche there are even a few metal/rock bars. If you love to travel, and love hardcore and metal music like me, Ecuador is awesome!

The styles of metal music vary in Quito, from straight out thrash metal, to hardcore, to bands like Curare, who, instead of  lead vocals, they have lead flutes!

Vocals are traditional Andean indigenous flutes, with the only actual vocals coming from during choruses; and are backup at most. The lead of this band, the man downstage front, is the flutist.

The flutes are the vocals.

The vocals are flutes!

It will blow your freakin’ mind!

Ok, maybe not, but then again, it did mine. Curare is one of the most amazing mashed up music style bands I’ve ever seen.

Descomunal is one of Quito’s most popular metal band, and they have played Quitofest, Altavoz festival (Medellin, Colombia), and Rock en el Parque (Bogota, Colombia), with Lamb of God/Hatebreed in Quito, and a slew of other shows.

They are a crazy, heavy, hardcore metal bands with a ginormous, loyal fanbase, and I personally think they fucking rock! I’ve had the opportunity to see them multiple times, and to go into the recording studio with them. If you want to see a crazy, awesome band, go to a Descomunal show while you’re in Quito.

Mal Rojo, Ente, Kaniwara, Sal y Mileto, Sarcoma,…there’s a million bands in Quito that are amazing and you should check out. And Quito isn’t the only place in Ecuador with amazing metal music. Head to Guayaquil and check out La Bicileta del Diablo, or to the coast in Manta to see Replika. Nearly every city and town in Ecuador has metal music. 

So if you are looking to an alternative to the traditional guide-book Ecuadorian adventures, why not check out the local metal music scene. You can find shows on Facebook, or by checking out any of the above listed band pages. Also check outAlarma Ecuador. They put on the bigger shows in Quito: Quitofest, Cannibal Corpse/Suicide Silence/Black Dalhia Murder, and Lamb of God/Hatebreed .

Yes, Scandinavia doesn’t hold the monopoly on the production of amazing metal music anymore.  Go to Ecuador and get your metal on!

\m/  CHEERS!  \m/

Wait…WHAT?

The Medellin Dixie Band is just what it says; a band, all from Colombia, that plays authentic, turn-of-the-century, Louisiana style, Dixie music.  And these guys are good! FUCKING MINDBLOWING!!!

Erica from Over Yonderlust invited me.  She came to Medellin shortly after I returned there; so of course, when 2 travel bloggers are in the same city, we meet up.  Its like getting to hang out with an old friend you have never met.  In our discussing, via the internet what we should do, she nonchalantly asks me if I would be interested in seeing her friend’s band play.  Having just returned from 6 weeks in Ecuador, doing nothing but photographing rock and metal bands, I of course jumped at seeing more music.

Sure when?

Tonight.

Ok, YEA!

Oh, and its Dixie  music.

OH HELL YEA!

(I LOVE old music.  Actually, I love just about every kind of music.  Except American country music.  I hate American country music.)

A few hours later, Erica and Shaun,Troy from Fogg Odyssey , and Diego and I met up for an impromptu travel-bloggy meet-up party to see Dixie music in Medellin, Colombia.

It was awesome!

First off – they were all dressed like old-timey Dixie players;  shoes, hats, red & white stripy vests, the whole shebang!   When they played, you couldn’t tell you were in the middle of Colombia, thousands of miles, and decades after, the origins of Dixie. 

The talent was palpable.

I was suddenly filled with images of old flop houses, prohibition, and a crazier time where men where men and women were classy sultresses.  I couldn’t stop myself from choreographing burlesque routines in my head, and I am pretty sure I had my hips swaying, even though I was trying my best not to break out in full dance.  The music pierced into your soul in the best possible way. 

This band was nothing I ever expected to find in South America, and never would have, if it not for Erica and Shaun and their awesomeness at loving random, amazing things, as much as me.  (Their link above brings you to their blog post on this band).  

If you ever go to Medellin, I highly recommend seeing The Medellin Dixie Band perform. It is one of the most unexpected and impressive things you will find in the city!

CHEERS!