by  stevendepolo 

 

WHY DOES ANYONE WANT A COLD SHOWER?

And by cold I mean shard of icicles pelting at your face cold!

If you live in a tropical desert (which Quito definitely is not) cool showers aren’t that bad.  Hell, even in Medellin, I’ve gotten used to them (but still wont take them on cold, cold days).  But if I’m paying for a hostel, in the mountains, and especially one that advertises HOT WATER, I expect it.

Vibes Hostel may have super comfy beds, and Wi-Fi that gets into the bedrooms…but COLD SHOWERS? Their “hot water” is literally a bucket outside under a plastic ‘roof’ a foot above it. So basically your ‘hot’ shower is only slightly warmer than the air outside. Oh, and most of the showers are outdoor showers too. Plywood rectangles on 3 sides, with a curtain on the fourth.

Only 2 showers are inside, and they not totally separate. The first ‘bathroom’ is a sink and a shower. Through this is a door leading to a small room with a toilet and another shower (with a window that is permanently open and lets in all the freezing cold, Andean air).  So if you are showering in the first ‘room (the only one without outside air) you have the possibility of someone in the second shower just walking through.

Ok, whatever, that part really isn’t that bad unless you are super private…but we live in dorms. We are use to changing in front of total strangers of both sexes.

But cold water. And outdoor showers. Why in god’s name would anyone want to take a cold shower, in the cold outdoor air, in Quito – a city above the clouds that has permanent late New England fall weather?

So even though the beds are dank, and the Wi-Fi kicks ass, as soon as the 3 days I booked was up (because they wanted 48 hours notice to cancel a reservation, so by the time I realized about the cold showers I couldn’t really steal out any earlier)…I moved across the street to the Blue House Hostel. 

Photos of Vibes Hostel online also show a bar and fancy lite activity room, which I noticed a distinct lack of when I was there.  There was no breakfast, no bar.  The maintenance guy who has to let you in and out of the front gate during the day is usually nowhere to be found.  The rec room downstairs was dingy and dirty and not inviting at all.  The reception changed from super nice and helpful to mildly interested to annoyed you have questions depending on who happened to be working. You never knew if you could get help or just stared at coldly.  The kitchen was small and dingy as well.   Vibes is just a completely mis-advertised hostel.

Although the beds were super comfy and got Wi-Fi to them, everything else they advertise is distinctly lacking, and the service ranged wildly depending on who was working.  They are cheap, but there are many others in the same price range in the area that are nicer hostels and have hot water.  I recommend staying anywhere else.

Quito is known for its volcanoes, its historic district, and easy transport to Middle Earth.  But if you are like me, and could give a crap about these things, (or just don’t like freezing cold, rainy weather enough to want to go climb a volcano in it), why not attend one of the many many metal shows that happen almost daily in Quito.

Quito is metal-head-freakin-heaven!

Most fans of metal music think of Finland, Sweden, Norway…as where the best metal comes from.

But I disagree. Quito rocks.  Well, their weather sucks.  But when it comes to music, people, and a good time, Quito Rocks!

And quite frankly, all of Ecuador is full of metal-head minions.

During my 6 weeks in Quito I attended shows, band rehearsals, and studio recordings almost daily.

QUITO LOVES METAL MUSIC!

It was something I never expected. Walking around Quito you see many long black haired, black dressed, skull embellished, metal-heads everywhere. In Mariscal Foche there are even a few metal/rock bars. If you love to travel, and love hardcore and metal music like me, Ecuador is awesome!

The styles of metal music vary in Quito, from straight out thrash metal, to hardcore, to bands like Curare, who, instead of  lead vocals, they have lead flutes!

Vocals are traditional Andean indigenous flutes, with the only actual vocals coming from during choruses; and are backup at most. The lead of this band, the man downstage front, is the flutist.

The flutes are the vocals.

The vocals are flutes!

It will blow your freakin’ mind!

Ok, maybe not, but then again, it did mine. Curare is one of the most amazing mashed up music style bands I’ve ever seen.

Descomunal is one of Quito’s most popular metal band, and they have played Quitofest, Altavoz festival (Medellin, Colombia), and Rock en el Parque (Bogota, Colombia), with Lamb of God/Hatebreed in Quito, and a slew of other shows.

They are a crazy, heavy, hardcore metal bands with a ginormous, loyal fanbase, and I personally think they fucking rock! I’ve had the opportunity to see them multiple times, and to go into the recording studio with them. If you want to see a crazy, awesome band, go to a Descomunal show while you’re in Quito.

Mal Rojo, Ente, Kaniwara, Sal y Mileto, Sarcoma,…there’s a million bands in Quito that are amazing and you should check out. And Quito isn’t the only place in Ecuador with amazing metal music. Head to Guayaquil and check out La Bicileta del Diablo, or to the coast in Manta to see Replika. Nearly every city and town in Ecuador has metal music. 

So if you are looking to an alternative to the traditional guide-book Ecuadorian adventures, why not check out the local metal music scene. You can find shows on Facebook, or by checking out any of the above listed band pages. Also check outAlarma Ecuador. They put on the bigger shows in Quito: Quitofest, Cannibal Corpse/Suicide Silence/Black Dalhia Murder, and Lamb of God/Hatebreed .

Yes, Scandinavia doesn’t hold the monopoly on the production of amazing metal music anymore.  Go to Ecuador and get your metal on!

\m/  CHEERS!  \m/

1. Watching a pig being butchered doesn’t phase me.  

I actually got all sciencey on it and was super interested in how pigs insides are put together.  Mostly because I know they are very much like humans.  So watching a pig be butchered was like biology class to me.  And damn was it delicious!   Don’t worry.  There are no photos of this.  Mostly because I messed up saving the whole folder of photos of the Colombian countryside when we reformatted my computer. 

2. When saving all your photos to an external, check that they copied correctly using  A DIFFERENT COMPUTER!  

Yup, when you check the files while your external is still hooked up to your laptop, you will undoubtedly open the laptop file, not the external hard drive file, think that you have all the photos copied correctly, then not realize until 2 days later that you just lost a month worth of photos.

Number one cause of file loss?   

ID-10-T errors.

Luckily the photos I lost are all ones I can retake next time I go back to my Colombian family’s house.  Unfortunately, they were also about 3 months of blog posts and the videos/photos of the pig butchering.

3. I have the opposite reaction to altitudes. 

I learned that the higher up I go in altitude, no acclimatizing needed, I can run around more, drink more, and not get hung-over.  It is awesome.  Bring on the Himalayas bitches!

4. Always carry your own tp. 

Toilet paper is not a required item in bathrooms. Public bathroom are everywhere, but you will hardly ever find them stocked with this precious commodity.  I’ve been told its because it gets stolen the second it gets stocked.  It took me a month of being back in the USA to stop carrying rolls of toilet paper in my bags.

5. Long-term buses are kept about 2 degrees above freezing. 

Water will condense because of the cold and likely drip on you if you have a window seat.  Even if you are in the middle of the jungle, if you plan on taking a long trip bus, also plan on bringing jackets, long pants, a winter coat and a blanket or two.  

Buses are freezing!!!

You may feel like a tool heading to the bus with all that, but everyone is carrying bags upon bags of winter gear.  And you will likely die totally regret it, if you don’t.

6. Wash your fruits and veggies. 

This is not North America people. Even at the corner stores, your fruit was likely picked the same morning you bought it, and still covered with dirt.  Especially be careful of lettuce.  Because if you don’t wash it, you will find a worm in your salad.

MMMMM…protein.

Its like eating from a garden all the time.  Delicious, but sometimes has a bug or two, and it goes bad fast.  But your tomatoes will actually SMELL like tomatoes.  It is awesome!

7.  Colombia is not a giant cocaine field. 

Contrary to the popular stereotype (created by, oh hey, the good ‘ol USA who consumes 90% of cocaine in the world), Colombians are not a bunch of coke fiends, and Colombia is not one giant cocaine farm. 

Medellin – NOT a giant cocaine farm

Colombia is not one giant cocaine farm. Stop asking me how the coke is/costs/where to buy it.

It is actually quite a modern country (especially Medellin, which is on the forefront of public transportation and hold first in the world records for their metro cable and outdoor escalators).  Colombians hate the stereotype (for good reason) and the only people who I ever heard ask about, or use coke, was tourists. Good old tourists…perpetuating bunk stereotypes.   That’s not to say coke doesn’t exist or get used down there,  but nothing like the level you’ll find here in the USA.

8. Ecuador loves metal music!  

I never in a million years expected to see a sea of black-laden-metal-heads the second I arrived in Quito.  Ecuador rivals those Scandinavian countries on production of awesome metal music.  I spent 6 weeks in Quito going to rock and metal shows.  Historic district, smishtoric district.  Bring on the rock!!!

9. Quito loves Middle Eastern food.  

That was another gigantic surprise…a numerous amount of kebab and middle eastern food all over Quito.  I guess there was a giant influx of immigrants from this area in the 50’s, and they brought some of the most delicious food with them.  Sick of South American fried foods?  Head to Quito and get your kebab on!

10. Not everyone speaks English. 

I know we are all told this, but it’s a lie. Yes, some people speak some English, a few people speak really good, fluent English, but the majority of people speak…oh my god.. SPANISH!  Go figure. 

In South America most people speak Spanish. 

I know this may be a hard concept, but its true.  Learn a few polite and direction words, and it can get you far.  But if you go thinking you’ll be fine with just English, your in for trouble.  Luckily, many people and many places offer to teach people Spanish.  Mine still sucks, (especially in Paisa country), but its ok, and I learned a lot while down there (and am still learning more). 

Also, Portuguese is not Spanish.  People will not understand it.

Donkeys wandering down the middle of the coastal highway in Ecuador somewhere between Manta and Montañita.   This may be a common sight in many parts of South America, but it is definitely something I would never see at home in Las Vegas!

This is part of a new photo series called:

“Things You Don’t See At

Home”.

Have your own photo of something strange, new, awesome you have seen while traveling and want to guest-post here as part of my weekly, Friday THINGS YOU DON’T SEE AT HOMEseries?

Send me an email at nomaddanib@gmail.com with ‘THINGS YOU DON’T SEE AT HOME’ in the subject, along with your photo (JPEG), short caption, link to your travel/fanpage and short bio.

Look for “Things You Don’t See At Home” photos every Friday. (to coincide with #FriFoto on Twitter).

CHEERS!

Ok.  So I’ve only been to 4 countries so far, but the best empanadas, hands down (according to my oh-so-scientific-analysis of them) are CHILE!

But here is my comparison of empanadas in South America.

1. VENEZUELA

Venezuelan empanadas are highly fried.  They sometimes smell like very Americanized Chinese food (due to the saturation of oil inside them).  They also have very little filling.  Just a small amount in the bottom and the rest of it is just a giant pocket of air.  This does serve to hold sauces, like salsa, or cilantro pesto stuff you commonly eat with empanadas, but it is basically eating fried dough to me.  Caracas (top) you can see does have much more filling than the empanadas from Juan Griego on Margarita Island (bottom).

2. COLOMBIA

Also fried, but stuffed with filling and not nearly as greasy as Venezuela.  Usually meat or cheese, I’ve also seen pork and beans, and chicken and rice with potatoes (my favourite here).  They are stuffed full of filling and one can fill you up.  and I love eating the chicken with a bunch of spicy salsa (I really love picante foods)

3. ECUADOR

Ok, so I only had a couple here.  (And the photo sucks, cause I totally dropped the ball on this, and only have a couple bad photos taken with my phone.)

Ecuadorian empanadas are also fried but not super greasy either, and sometimes the meat filling has chopped celery or something in it.  I was originally told this was ‘Chilean style’ but after being in Chile, these were not even close to Chilean empanadas, yet still really, really good.  They actually seem quite similar to Colombian in size and way they are cooked, but the fillings have a little differences in taste and spices.  I also had a gigantic Ecuadorian empanada filled with shrimp and cheese at another restaurant that was delicious  (this one is also not pictured – again, I was too busy maowing it down and dropping the ball with the photo thing)   They are very similar to Colombian style.  The real differences between Colombian and Ecuadorian are slight differences in spices.  And I have found 1 shrimp empanadas in Ecuador, but so far, none in the Colombian cities of Bogota or Medellin (the only 2 cities I have visited so far.)

4. CHILEAN

Chilean empanadas for starters, are not fried. They are grilled. Which allows you to really taste the filling inside of them. Also, they are filled with more options (than just meat – aka beef – , pork, chicken, or queso cheese). You can get spinach and mushroom empanadas, shrimp and queso empanadas, tomato and sausage empanadas..pretty much anything you want inside these delicious little moon shaped pockets of awesomeness.

My favourite, so far…CHILEAN – hands down.  I love the variety of fillings and the baked/grilled crust (which is much flakier and closer to a bread or pie dough than a corn flour/tamale type dough.)  They are the biggest, but also taste much fresher and lighter (mostly due to the ingredients and fact you can get them filled with veggies).  I just really like that you can taste the filling and not just the oil.  I love empanadas, but so far, Chilean the best.

CHEERS!